The A B(erluti) C of Luxury Footwear.

The A B(erluti) C of Luxury Footwear.

Full disclosure I am a great admirer of the BERLUTI brand and I am also a fan of Creative Director Kris Van Assche but news this week that the LVMH owned brand is taking a break from formal fashion schedule may not come as a complete surprise to many. The release went on to say that Kris Van Assche its talented Creative Director was exiting the business.

Acquired by LVMH in 1993, BERLUTI expanded the leather goods in 2005 and in 2011 Alessandro Sartori (ex Ermenegildo Zegna), partnered with Arnault to expand the artisan footwear into a lifestyle label for men with complete RTW fashion collections.

Sartori returned to Zegna in 2016, and was succeeded at BERLUTI for a few seasons by Haider Ackermann also a designer of note, but the collection was way too ‘editorial’ read that as pink leather Trench coats, until Van Assche arrived amid a designer shakeup at LVMH that saw Kim Jones move from Louis Vuitton to become artistic director of men’s ready-to-wear at Dior, and Virgil Abloh arrive as men’s artistic director at Vuitton. Musical chairs at LVMH.

BERLUTI now boasts more than 60 stores worldwide, and offers head-to-toe bespoke services at ateliers on Rue Marbeuf and Rue de Sèvres in Paris. It remains famous for its court shoe fashioned from a single piece of leather without any seams, and its artisan polishing – with champagne no less. Known for youthful tailoring and loads of athletic and workwear influences, the Kris Van Assche collection also dabbled in women’s wear.

However, we don’t know what the performance figures are as LVMH does not release a breakdown of the figures by brand. But one would speculate that the BERLUTI RTW has not sold well or sufficiently to keep a creative director at the helm, having gone through quite a few of them in the past 5 years. The question remains why does LVMH keep bringing in rather high profile creative directors only to discover that after two or three seasons the RTW fashion lines just don’t garner the attention or credit cards of the high net worth BERLUTI customer. I’d speculate it’s because that classic customer wants beautifully hand-crafted footwear and not fluro tipped, artist print apparel, but I could be wrong.

Experience should suggest that they take stock and adjust the masterplan but I would speculate that they will continue to bring in creative directors and this time might try to develop a luxury streetwear vibe – and new in the frame designers like Heron Preston (old chum of Kanye) who’s just launched a collaboration with CALVIN KLEIN could be in the frame. There’s also Kirby Jean Raymond of menswear brand Pyer Moss fame. Interestingly they are both Black which could give LVMH another string to the PR bow should they consider hiring either of these designers. I guess we will wait for the breaking news.

Fashion Designers who have lost their name!

Jil Sander – a veteran of the fashion industry joined forces with the Prada group in 2000 when they acquired 75% of the business she founded in 1968. Within six months she had “left the business”. It has been widely reported that Sander did not see eye to eye with Patrizio Bertelli, chairman and CEO of Prada Group about the business direction of the brand.
She returned to the brand in 2003 but once again left in 2004. Sander came back yet again in 2013 and then, after citing “personal reasons”, she announced that her AW14 collection would be her last.
JIL SANDER SpA was sold to a private equity firm, Change Capital Partners, in 2006, then in 2008 to Japanese apparel specialists Onward Holdings Co. Sander went on to collaborate in 2009 with Fast Retailing’s UNIQLO high street brand creating a +J collection, as she was unable to use her own name which is still owned by Onward Holdings Co Ltd. The collaboration with UNIQLO lasted for three years. She has just relaunched a new collaboration with UNIQLO in Nov 2020.

My Favourite Fashion Films.

Bill Cunningham is a legend and a Gentleman.  This documentary follows the life and work of an extraordinary man, who many consider to be the original ‘streetstyle’ photographer.  Having reached the age of 80, he still cycles daily in Manhattan to search out his topics for the day.  An emotional and moving tribute to a true legend who has dedicated his entire life to his craft.

Few words remain to describe the talent and ego of Karl Lagerfeld.  From Fendi to Chanel and his eponymous brand, the man is an unstoppable force in the fashion industry.  This documentary gives some delightful insights into the talent and the foibles of the man as well as showing the breath of creative talent he possesses, from designing collections, to his passion for photography.

The fly on the wall documentary that opened up the world of Fashion publishing.  The film follows the creation of the now fabled ‘September Issue‘ of American Vogue magazine under the revered Editor-In-Chief, Anna Wintour. It also shows how the most successful fashion magazine in the world can both influence and support fashion from all aspects of the business.  My recommendation is the US version which is a two disc set containing an additional 60 mins of footage that was not included in the final edit, and which is a delicious insight into the foibles and egos of some of the key protagonists.

Following the death of Fashion Icon Yves Saint Laurent, his partner in business and life Pierre Berge took the decision to auction the artwork and objet d’art they had collected together over 40 years.  This film documents the preparation and dismantling of the famous collection from their home at Rue de Babylone in Paris, as well as giving a rather frank and illuminating insight into the life of YSL from his meteoric rise as the successor to Christian Dior [at just 21] in 1955 and the illustrious career that followed.  An incredibly moving and rather sad account of the power of fashion and the creative genius.

Presenting one of the greatest Couturiers of our time!  Valentino– The Last Emperor follows the last two years of his reign as head of the business and tracks the creation of the lavish fashion spectacle in Rome, to celebrate 45 yrs of the designers’ achievements, and his final Couture show which must rank as one of those rare fashion moments .  We see in the film that it is the beginning of the end of the career of the man who started the business with his partner Giancarlo Giammetti in 1959 but we also see the passion and determination he shows never to compromise on his creative talent, which is truly remarkable.  This ranks as one of my most favourite fashion films ever.  The extras on this DVD are an added bonus which also gives a glimpse into the private life of wealth, opulence and privilege of the very rich.

There is no question that Designer Marc Jacobs is an extraordinary talent, and this film follows the creation of two fashion collections headed up by Jacobs, his own eponymous label based in NYC and as Creative Director for Louis Vuitton, and is totally mind-blowing.  This fly on the wall film truly shows the pressures, challenges, and responsibility that is borne on the shoulders of fashion designers today.  That said, what comes across in spades is Jacobs’ creative genius but also his likeability.  I came away from this film liking and respecting Marc Jacobs in ways I had not thought possible, if one reads all of the media accounts about his past bad behaviours.  I would suggest that every designer or would-be designer watch this documentary for a very accurate account of just how tough the fashion business really is!

A True Master of Fashion

AZZEDINE ALAIA- a true master.

Take a journey inside the Paris studio of master couturier AZZEDINE ALAIA. This touching and thoughtful documentary by uber Stylist Joe McKenna shows the master at work in his Atelier. Watching the designer create patterns and drape designs on models is both illuminating and awe inspiring, his exacting eye not missing a thing. He even caters Lunch in the studio for his entire team every day, and would appear to be almost a father figure to his staff! Naomi Campbell calls him ‘Papa’. With contributions from fashion stalwarts such as Suzy Menkes, Vanessa Friedman and Nicholas Ghesquiere, it’s a rather enlightening insight.

A definite highlight is the designer dancing with his huge St.Bernard in the studio.

https://www.joesfilm.com

GIVENCHY – Clare Waight Keller Exits.

GIVENCHY – Clare Waight Keller exits the brand!

Sometimes things happen in Fashion that confound the ‘Fashionista’ and the Fashion Press. Having had a most promising debut as Artistic Director (first woman) and (a Royal Wedding Dress no less) at a Paris Fashion House -GIVENCHY, it appears that with her SS20 collection shown at PFW, Clare Waight Keller, has achieved the near impossible- confounded the Fashion Media (and some non-fashion types too).

I’ve long been a fan of Keller’s creative talent. Starting out as one of TOM FORD’s Womenswear designers, had a stellar run at Chloé and did a great job (albeit briefly) at Pringle. However, this collection has come out of left field! We all know that fashion has been toying with the retro 70s and 80s of late, but GIVENCHY SS20 seems rather incongruous to what Keller has set out as her agenda, including the seriousness (in a good way) of her first Haute Couture collection for the house and the Menswear had certainly spurred fresh interest.

SS20 – Bulky leather for Summer – oh no. Clunky Taffeta bows and button detail blouses looked a bit 70s Ali McGraw, 80s “Charlie’s Angels” meets MILLENNIAL that I just don’t see the GIVENCHY customers buying into. And given the latest developments from Paris it seems that I wasn’t the only one.

And as this is posted CWK has parted company with GIVENCHY, after 3 years!

#Givenchy

Bright Young Things!

Smoke and Mirrors!
Cecil Beaton must be considered a man who had the ability to transform! He may be considered an alchemist with the ability to transform anything base into something beautiful and desirable. His creative talent was outstanding, from set design, costumes, painting and photography, he himself came from most humble beginnings. The son of a timber merchant, Beaton had his nose firmly pressed to the glass and continually dissatisfied with his lot, was determined to change his fortunes. His dairies bemoaned his impecunious circumstances, until he befriended Edith Sitwell, who became a patron. Likewise Viscountess Wimborne, also a patron who gave decadent parties at Wimborne House (now part of The Ritz hotel). He did become a darling of the beau-monde and his photographs now feature in an exhibition at The National Portrait Gallery, London. “Cecil Beaton’s Bright Young Things” runs from March 12 through June 7 and we hope in the current crisis this exhibition will be extended if possible. Images of Paula Gellibrand, the Marques de Casa Maury and the Maharani of Cooch Behar in the 20s and 30s are sublime. As well as his friends Stephen Tenant and Edwina Mountbatten.
Should you get a chance to see this exhibition you won’t be disappointed. #CecilBeaton

Artisan and Conservators – V&A

Artisan and Conservation- V&A Museum

If you need some distraction then I urge you to watch ‘Secrets of the Museum’ on BBC iPlayer. Behind the scenes, fly on the wall series about the conservators and the conservation workshops at the V&A Museum- spellbinding TV. One program focussed on a DIOR dress bought in London being prepared for the renowned DIOR exhibition last year.

The Clothworkers’ Centre for the Study and Conservation of Textiles and Fashion is a state-of-the-art facility that offers visitors and researchers a truly unique opportunity to inspect and study one of the most important collections of textiles and fashion in the world, ranging from archaeological fragments to heavy tapestry and carpets, accessories and underwear to embroidered 18th century court dresses and contemporary haute couture. I have been fortunate to have had a private tour and attend the launch some years back and it’s truly a place of wonder.

#secretsofthemuseum #V&A #BBCiPlayer #DIOR

KIMONO-Kyoto to Catwalk

For self professed Japanophiles (lovers of all things Japanese) a new and sumptuous exhibition is just landing at the V&A Museum in London. Fortunate to have a private Press tour it certainly doesn’t disappoint.

“KIMONO- Kyoto to Catwalk” takes us as if by time travel from the origins of the Kimono and the influences it has bestowed on fashion throughout the ages. Featuring almost 300 items, it’s a wonderful feast for the eye. From the 17th c classical to modern influences on contemporary designers like THOM BROWNE, Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano for DIOR Couture(the origami collection), it’s simply a marvel!

Anna Jackson, curator of Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk at the V&A, said: ‘From the sophisticated culture of 17th -century Kyoto to the creativity of the contemporary catwalk, the kimono is unique in its aesthetic importance and cultural impact giving it a fascinating place within the story of fashion.’

With a resurgence in the Kimono in Japan, it’s rather a timely exhibition.

This is certain to be popular so I’d get to booking tickets right away, as you won’t be disappointed. 

Dates- 29 February-21 June 2020. 

 #Kyototocatwalk  #V&A #wattswhat

TOD’S Take Aim!

TOD’s

The luxury Italian footwear brand once again putting a big push with RTW for AW20 shown in Milan. Under the stewardship of new creative director Walter Chiapponi (ex BOTTEGA) it’s actually a great collection- not exactly ‘catwalk fashion’ (bemoaned by the Fashion Media no doubt) but that’s not a bad thing nowadays. Apparently the MD of Tod’s is former CEO of BOTTEGA VENETA, so knows the handwriting of Chiapponi. I bet it will give CELINE a run for its money and should appeal to that customer💰. The collection offered a few too many ‘experimental’ looks (for editorial of course) and the tan patchwork leather was a miss in my view, but super coats, jumbo cords and tailored jackets it should all be very commercially sound. Watching with interest as he’s a talent for sure! #tods #mfw

MyTheresa- Men

German based e-commerce fashion platform MYTHERESA.com is to launch a debut Menswear offer -January 2020. Interesting to see how they will compete with established designer multi-brand platforms like Mr Porter(XNAP) who aligns with more classic luxury brands and MatchesFashion, similar designer brands but with a more ‘fashion forward’ edit. MYTHERESA will need to steer a course somewhere in between these two. Gen Z consumers aren’t interested in just buying ‘product’ as they are in experiences. MYTHERESA has an opportunity to refine a very specific omni-channel offer, with engaging content that appeals to the YouTube fans and TikTok early adopters. It’s alway a challenge for brands to replicate the online scrolling mentality, in the physical space, so they need to think outside the box. Creating unique experiences for online and bricks and mortar pop-ups is key, as well as introducing cool and innovative brands. Streetwear has had enormous impact on ‘high street’ and designer fashion and whilst it’s not going away soon, there’s been a resurgence of new textile development and a return to tailoring. MYTHERESA has further opportunity to refine a cool offer with all of the above appealing to a new Gen Z consumer. MYTHERESA Menswear launches January 2020.

#MYTHERESA